More Travels with Seth: Mali

Well, Julie is either very kind or very lazy, but she has offered me some space to write about the other interesting trip I took here in West Africa. I interned in Bamako over the summer, which was simply pretext for exploring the country. I began with what was supposed to be a weekend trip to Djenne, a short distance from the capital. I figured, I am so close to the world’s largest mud structure, I’ve gotta go see it, right? Well, the bus, after arriving in the middle of nowhere, promptly broke down. The driver set off for parts. The parts never arrived. Nor did the driver. Until the following morning.

The thirty some-odd people stuck on the bus along with me hunkered down for the night. I was prepared to sleep outside until I was warned about snakes…so I made myself as comfortable as I could on the bus. Then it rained. And the bus leaked. Ahhh, travel in Africa.

Arriving in Djenne the next evening made it all worth it. Crossing the Niger River at sunset and then entering the tiny island city was magical. I slept on a rooftop and so I got to see the mosque at sunrise. The mosque itself was impressive, but other than that, there was not much to see.

Crossing the Niger River at sunset to Djenne.

The world’s largest mud structure – the mosque at Djenne.

Mali’s true beauty lies further north. I took a public pinasse, a term for grossly overladen boat, from Mopti to Timbuktu. The journey took 3 nights and two days on a cramped deck of corrugated iron. Before boarding I grabbed a bag of little candies and that was the best decision I could have made. I used these treats to befriend my neighbors and their children. Its nice to be popular – for whatever reason, when in such tight conditions for so long!

Large blocks of salt at the port of Mopti. These are the blocks of salt that formed the foundation of trade with Timbuktu via long-distance camel caravans.

Public pinasse, much like the one taken to TB2. Three nights sleeping on corrugated iron…

Upon arrival at TB2’s port (the city is 18km north of the river), a fierce sandstorm hit. It was quite an introduction to the mystical city and I couldn’t have been happier with it. The storm ended up knocking out the city’s power for the duration of my stay, thereby making it a much better experience, if only for the brighter night sky! I hate to admit it, but I did in fact do the touristy camel-ride thing, but the desert was too beautiful to pass up. TB2 itself has nothing to offer outside of the desert, Tauregs hounding you to buy their leather and silver goods, and people wanting to drink tea and 'exchange ideas' [read: shake you down for cash.]

The Sahara desert outside of TB2.

Streets of TB2. Don’t take the fact that there is only one Tuareg in this picture to mean that they aren’t EVERYWHERE – all with things to sell.

One night I found myself at a bar run by an eccentric, music-loving French couple. Plugged into the surprisingly vibrant music scene, their bar/hotel is the locus for local musicians to come, hang out, and ‘jam.’ This night was no different, so I spent hours listening to some incredible music under the stars with some lukewarm beers…not too shabby in my opinion.

My favorite picture taken thusfar in Africa. The 4x4 took a brief stop during our 8 hour journey from TB2 to fix a flat tire. This stone marker was innocuous, thereby making it that much more beautiful.

After returning to Mopti by 4x4, I set off for the famed Dogon Country that runs along the country’s eastern escarpment. I took another traveler’s recommendation for a guide, and set off for 4 days of trekking. The Dogon people have been studied intensely by anthropologists because of their interesting history and even more fascinating dwellings built into the cliff face. Even higher than these homes are those of the Tellem, a pygmy people that some say have their origins in the Congo but no longer live in Mali. Today, the Dogon live at the base of the cliffs and have generated additional income by promoting the area to hikers.

Traditional meeting house. The low ceiling serves a dual purpose – it both keeps the structure cool and prevents any heated arguments from getting out of hand, as one cannot stand up inside.

One of several waterfalls.

Dogon and Tellem villages in the cliff-face.

Tellem village, close up.

Red Sox Nation takes hold in Mali.

Aside from the vast amount of history and fascinating anthropological information that I will not include here, the scenery was simply stunning. I spent my days clambering up steep inclines, exploring isolated villages, and soaking in my surroundings. After two months in the busy city of Bamako, this escape was much needed and much appreciated! Definitely the best thing I've done here in West Africa!